Wednesday, April 05, 2006

硝山*4 : A Day for The Departed

清明 (qing1 ming2) – some say it’s All Soul’s Day, some say Tomb Sweeping (扫墓 sao3 mu4) Day. A day we honor our ancestors, paying respect and homage to those whom we missed dearly. In this case, my beloved grandparents.

For me it is more like a ceremony than festival. Festival, because thousands of people making a point attending the ceremony. Some might not meet all their extended family members during Chinese New Year, but most likely to crawl with them all here.

I mean here –-


Well it’s an uphill task, often slippery during rainy days. That white building on top is a water treatment plant cum reservoir. Water from a nearby river will be tapped and processed before being distributed to residence of Padang Rengas (硝山)town, villagers, to shops and houses. The river is probably just 500m away, with the exact tapping point some 3km upstream.

But my grandparent are nowhere near that reservoir, they are here –-


I was facing my grandparent’s tomb(stone), looking back to the reservoir. I used to wonder would our tap water taste differently if they painted that building black -- or colorful, like that green tomb neighboring my grandparent’s. Thanks to this green tomb, I can locate my grandparent’s tomb easily out of hundreds which looks almost the same, like this –-


Traditionally Chinese cemeteries are located at hilly area, most likely some distance away from housing area. Not necessary to be really far, but there’s always some sort of buffer zone to define our boundary/territory from “theirs”. To be exact from my house its 5 minutes drive to reach where I stand now. That’s about 15 minutes jogging distance, passing by a tunnel and rubber estate. Perhaps I should share my regular morning jogging trails in other post. Not evening jog - - not around here anyway!

Some of the tombs are merely a meter away, without careful surveyed location or level. At a glance they are scattered all over the hill, looks clean and tidy now as most of the shrubs and wild plants was cleared by the management weeks before our arrival.


Those ten bucks above was meant for general maintenance. We actually need to fork out some additional twenty bucks to tidy up our grandparent’s tomb. We used to do it ourselves, slashing burning and all. But now it may not worth our time and traveling cost to do that. And I would say that twenty bucks probably mean something for some retired villagers.

Even if we don’t burn the grass, we still burn something. Chinese believe this is the way to pass the earthy possessions to the departed, by burning them. Most common paraphernalia are hell currency notes, clothes, shoes, jewelry, mahjong set, TV, international passport, jeans…you name it. Bigger paper models of house, car or motorcycle are usually being burned during the funeral ceremonies.


Sounds environmental unfriendly after all? So since when we decided to ignore gas emitted by all those factories, land vehicles and most recently, cheaper and made-popular flying machines? Sometime I felt that it’s just not fair to blame some traditional celebration, traditional slash and burn farmer plus many others for contributing to environmental pollution. For instance the (almost) annual Sumatra (Indonesia) haze blown to Malaysia was mostly caused by timber industry, not some independent domestic farmers. Burning down the forest is the cheapest and fastest method for land clearing, fertilizing top soils while wiping out certain pests in the same time. It’s sad that once regard as contributor to agriculture development now named contributor to air quality depletion.

Of course, one can be certain that my grandma will actually get her mahjong set in the afterworld. But we will just let them burned. I don’t foresee any changes in my lifetime, simply because most people still think that there’s always more timber in the forest, it is impossible to fish everything out of the sea, and we’ll always have clean air, that global warming is a just big joke.


Anyway, we don’t burn the food, though. Offerings like steamed chicken, pork, fruits and rice will be served in front of the tomb, for our ancestor’s consumption. Everything will be kept for our lunch later. Funny as it seems, but the chicken taste as delicious it as should be, after the prayer.

I would say our ancestors who started all these practices are being practical in this matter. From young we are being told not to waste any food –if you notice your Chinese friend will try their very best to finish everything served on the table.


Going back to the grave, I particularly like this picture -- colored paper (or often known as rainbow-paper) arranged on top of the grave together with plenty of joysticks. Those colored paper represent “new cloth” to the grave, also brings annotation of “we’ve been here” as it tells everyone that this grave is taken care by their families. And all those joss sticks – to hold the papers in place, plus we don’t bring back any extra joss sticks back home. Joss stick for god’s prayer must be separated with those being use here.


The last picture was taken inside the only building at the cemetery. Usually people will have simple prayer here before they proceed to the tomb. Nobody bordered to have fluorescent light here. No one will be here after dark anyway. “They will have party here after 2400 hours,” a former park committee used to joke with us after his regular night out catching frog. For him, the night belongs to the deceased. Former committee -- because he join the same party few years back.

Are there any party at all? Well, it really depends on your mental state when you were there after dark…

18 Comments:

At 8:50 PM, Blogger YD said...

Fantastic post! A very detailed description of this very important and meaningful ceremony. I wish I were back there with my family.

.... and they get Levi's Jeans now???! Boy things are getting more interesting these days... :-) I wonder whether next time we would get laptops, pda, etc... xbox?

 
At 1:02 AM, Blogger Chen said...

I heard many people saying the food for offerings doesn't taste as nice as the normal food..
Might be cos those from the other world tasted the food earlier on causing the food not as tasty as before?? ;)

 
At 2:13 PM, Blogger HappySurfer said...

Low, a great read. Thanks for sharing.

YD, they already have laptops and PDAs. Probably even N70s too, I'm sure.

 
At 3:54 PM, Blogger YD said...

N70... hahaha... =_=!!

since 2000, they have even set up online tomb-sweeping service in China, and create some memorial websites...

Procedures:
1) Click to clean the tomb
2) Click to burn the joss sticks
3) Click to burn the paper-made gifts (you've got lots of choices here)
4) Click to kow-tow and pay your tribute.

Now it reminds me of some interactive xmas cards somehow...

The purpose for online tomb-sweeping is to cater for the need of the people living far away from the families who can't make it to the qing ming. My feeling is that the more important part is the feelings, love and respect they hold for their ancestors. A simple prayer with sincere heart, a thought about the family, worth much more than any service online.

Happy Qing Ming everyone, let's remember our roots.

 
At 6:32 PM, Blogger @ロウ 。LOW@ said...

yd, you mean Leevi's? :p Well I doubted that my grandparent will fancy PDA, laptop and all. I guess when they need one they will inform me in my dream? Haha!

Online tomb-sweeping? Well if you are really keen on doing it you can always have an ancestor's altar at home, like what we have for Chinese deities. But I guess you are right, it's from our heart, in our mind, close to our soul.

chen...
I guess you are right: Food left cooling down there certainly won't taste better than when it's served hot out of wok.

Anything more than that, is a "believe it or not" situation, really :)

happy...
You are most welcome, my friend. I'm looking at your Taj Mahal post now -- it's like a giant tomb build to remember the love one, no? :)))

 
At 10:24 AM, Blogger DCampbell aka Puteri said...

The river is not far from the cemetery? Wonder how the water from there tastes like eh?! You think there is no run off from the cemetery to the river?

Just a thought.

Great pics, though, Low.

 
At 8:03 PM, Blogger The Moody Minstrel said...

Thank you for yet another wonderfully informative post, Low!

Tending to the family graves is something we do three times a year in Japan. Both the design of the graves and the procedure seem very similar, but the Chinese style is much more elaborate. All we do is clean the graves, pour water over them, and place offerings (not burned) and incense (burned).

Actually, slash-and-burn farming is considered to contribute to the depletion of air quality because it is wiping out the tropical rain forests (a major source of our planet's oxygen as well as a moderator of temperature and climate), not so much because of the smoke.

 
At 8:17 PM, Blogger Pandabonium said...

Another great inside look into your local culture. Thanks. Interesting customs. Rembering those who have gone before us and made our life possible is an important thing to do, in what ever way one does it.

 
At 8:40 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

oh Low, Thre's jeans brand livies too! oh In Iban cuture we have to send the shirt for the passed away relatives. but its the real cloths of them and put on the grave, sometimes theres also bring tv, refegerator, gold and many more for the death people when they re buried in the grave.

 
At 5:23 PM, Blogger @ロウ 。LOW@ said...

puteri...
Oh, glad to have a princess here :) Well few hundred meter are far enough, it's not like we have a rubbish dumpsite there. Any underground seepage will be taken up by all sorts of plants as fertilizer.

While runoff or surface water from grave will never get through the rubber estate, to the river, they don't carries anything from "down there", either.

I used to (still, sometimes) bath at the nearest point to the grave, but I only worried someone will sh*t or do some washing upstream :p That's the reason why usually don't bath downstream, and the tapping point (for water reservoir) few KM upstream :)

moody...
Three times -- I hope the grave is close enough to what they live in. Used to be a taboo but some Chinese now start planning where they wish to be buried, and how when they died in the future. More like a house investment, only small scale, small built-up area :p

Of course slash-and-burn will contribute to whatever envorinmental problem -- the question is, who, and at what rate. Given enough time and proper exposure a piece of papar will biodegrade in forest floor in weeks -- not one whole book.

pandabonium...
Be my guest, anytime, my friend :) Erm, I wonder how they do it in Fiji Island? Indian way?

cuthess...
Well we did dress up the deceased before we buried them, if that's what you meant :p But you don't leave real clothes there, everytime you went praying/visiting the grave, right? Thanks for sharing! :)

 
At 11:33 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

i learn something from your entry. thank you.

 
At 12:27 AM, Blogger S said...

as always, very enlightening post, and brilliant pictures :)

 
At 8:31 AM, Blogger @ロウ 。LOW@ said...

Nurul...
Great! We learn from each other's post :p Maybe you could post something similar during Hari Raya? :) Cheers!

s!
It's nice to have you back! A lot of cases recently? :p Hope to see you around then! :)

 
At 5:50 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hiya!!!

A very nice post, of course i'm not to fond of the whole burning thing but i guess that's a tradition. We have a similar tradition here too but it takes place in November. It's the 'Day of the Dead' and everyone goes to cementeries to visit their ancesters, some even get musicians to play and make a big party for them. It's a big celebration.

BTW, thanks for the 'cool' hugs but couldn't they be a lil warmer? It's getting cold in here. Brrrrrrrr.

((((((Besos)))))))

 
At 3:56 PM, Blogger Lrong Lim said...

waah... come to think of it, I normally sweat like crazy in such outings... but it is always a pleasure to chew on the steam chicken afterwards...

 
At 5:28 PM, Blogger Robin CHAN said...

hmmm.. a visit to the nightclub.. where it is only active in the nights..

especially lunar 7th month.. (this year got 2 such months)

 
At 9:10 AM, Blogger @ロウ 。LOW@ said...

Anonymous...
Musician? Interesting! Probably people in SA are so much in love with music, it's wonderful to have them played right in front if the grave! Not chinese, not us though :p

So, warm hugs now, huh? :)

Besos...

lrong...
Wet because of sweating is better than of raining! Hehe! It's not unusual to rain during Ching Ming time, I guess we all have some experience.

And yeah, sometime we start eating there and then -- reward after the hike :)

robin...
Sounds like you are very much interested into partying, hehe...just tell them you are new, should be alright! Haha!

 
At 4:29 PM, Blogger Robin CHAN said...

Elmo is found.. Hurray!

 

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