Becoming Hong Kong
25.3°C, Hong Kong Island (香港岛). This is probably the warmest Chinese New Year ever. Johnson said he felt awkward to wear shorts and T-shirt at this time of the year. Maybe next time when I flew in, one will be taxed for my "contribution to emission of greenhouse gases”.
But consider the weather thingy a surprise, quiet streets of Hong Kong metropolitan are not. Few of my friends were laughing at me when I said “hey this is quite busy” - but for them, it’s not even half of what it used to be, any given day. Probably not a good time for the VIP sitting just outside of Mongkok (旺角) MTR D2 exit. Hardly any cars (their definition, anyway) on the road, or anyone passing by except me and my camera. I remember she dropped her batteries and I picked it up for her. Then Blair picked me for breakfast.
Complicated Kowloon (九龍) subway system gets my nerves like the one back in Tokyo. The difference is this time I can walk to the counter and asked for directions, or get detailed information about Octopus card. Obviously they knew I’m a foreigner, not because of the 60L backpack but the Malaysian-ized Cantonese pronunciation. Stephanie and her sister Mariah almost beat me to it, but I quickly switch back to English. It’s works well (cover up), so I would recommend you the same, haha! Still, I can’t believe a western girl can do this to me but it’s kinda interesting – although I’ll get shock when I see her speaking in Cantonese again. Such a shame to tell someone that I’m from a multi-cultural society!
But really, you don’t have to know Cantonese, but unless you are prepared to spend moer for a good night sleep, please pay attention to some streets. One of which being Argyle (亞皆老街) - I’ll been walking up and down stairs in one or those flats looking for 180 HKD/night hostel, comes with personal bathroom. Two nights ago I paid about 220 HKD in Causeway Bay (銅鑼灣), and pretty far away from Kowloon!
I could have spent two nights there but Hong Kong Island has something I want – electric trams (電車). Ironically I took the tram ride only a day before I leave Hong Kong, after I cruise Stanley (赤柱)market and old ferry harbor. For 2 HKD the tram took us from Shau Kei Wan (筲箕灣) all the way to Central (中環), where Kay hosted me. It’s cheap but probably more suitable to be rented for your birthday party rather than going to work - the whole journey took more than an hour! 
Central probably occupies the highest population of foreign residents in Hong Kong. Walking around SoHo area (中環蘇豪區) one get the feeling of you're in some European country, but close enough to Kay’s apartment. Central, as in “Business Centre”. Backdrop for famous Victoria Harbor's (維多利亞港)night view. Perfect place in Hong Kong to have Lan Kwai Fong (兰桂芳), itself created by Canadian entrepreneur. But sometime if you look carefully (not just those Gwai lou鬼佬 in the bars), you can see something Chinese, and authentically Hong Kong – climbing those stairs in hilly Central was quite a task, especially when you are with a 15kgs! And so, combined with those of previous post, those were probably all the tourist hotspots that I know or at least visited. To be honest, Kowloon and Central alone can keep you really busy that four days will never be enough. But my trip took a big turn, thanks to me very own Angle-trio – I sincerely hope they are not bored traveling to places like New Territories (新界).
It was actually Sally’s brilliant idea – she used to volunteer in touring groups, given the choices (well, I’m a guest, haha) I choose Kat Heng Wai (吉慶圍) instead of some organic farm. Interesting about KHW, the famous Hakka village, is it is surrounded by walls of 6 meters. Built dating back to almost 500 years ago during Dynasty Ming, the village still hosted some 400 Teng's (鄧氏) descendents.
I spent my last afternoon in Hong Kong strolling around Sham Shui Po (深水埗), a residential area south-east of Kowloon. There I falls into the postcard again, walking through the eerie (actually quite bright then) corridor to Agnes’s apartment, joking with Uncle Lam and wife who was about to leave for their holiday in Singapore.
This is where I developed my negatives and hence, photos for my posts. This is where people chill out at the garden in the city, sun bathing their birds. This is where people came back when they are tired, after work. This is where children grew up, leave for their tertiary education but eventually come back again. I think this is a beautiful, peaceful place.
Lei Cheng flats, old Tong Lau (唐樓), fresh flowers…
Michael said Hong Kong’s crowd will come back in two day’s time (they never rest) but for me, it’s the fourth day, and evening. Somehow I felt relief when I left for Guangzhou in a bus, via busy Sai Yee Street (洗衣街) (literally “Washing Clothes” Street), Mongkok. People are brushing shoulders out there, nothing to do with clothes, really.
But stilll, I want to “chill out” at Hong Kong again!
More Photos: HERE
8 Comments:
Huh...U’re lucky snapped an empty street in MongKok (旺角). Usually it is a very CROWDED area.
While I went to HK, I often like to haunt in “Ladies Market” or “Women’s Street” where I could find some cheap clothing and daily commodities.
At evening, you could tried varies of cuisine beside those clothing stands.
I feel like I've been there. Great pics as always, Low, and interesting read. You had a wonderful experience I think, enhanced by connecting with people.
pp...
Well, lucky or unlucky. But I still think I will prefer not-so-busy Mongkok, anyway :p The hostel I stayed is almost next to "Women's street" - huge banner hung across the street. But thanks for the tips - I know what to look for next time :)
pandabonium...
Well, you should be there some time, my friend :p Every place has its charm and like you said, only to be enhanced by its people - like the blogsphere :p
Lovely! I agree with pinkpanther, I haven't had a chance to see Mongkok without the crowd! Haha, about the Women's street, the first time I went, I had this ridiculous expectation of hoping to see all women but no men there, luckily my friends quickly explained to me that it's the shopping area.
HK food... I simply can't forget it... I particularly enjoyed the time sitting down at old and dirty restaurant, but eating one of the best noddles I have tasted!
Looking forward to hear more of your adventures. ^_^
I'm enjoying these pics and posts a lot, especially since I haven't had a chance to make it to Hong Kong yet.
It's interesting seeing the place names, many of which I'm familiar with, but with the Chinese characters you provided because I understand a lot of them now. I never knew Kowloon meant "nine dragons"!
Clothes-washing street (洗衣街)? Oh, well. The most famous beachside resort town in my prefecture is called Oarai (大洗）, which means "big wash"!
Nice post as always, Low! Looking forward to the next one!
yd...
Hmm except some "female-only" washroom and subway tube I believe you can expect to see men everywhere, even in the wet market :p
And yeah, food is something big when you are traveling - never get enough of it! What a reward after a long day-walk, haha...
Moody...
Thanks for the comment, my friend. Those streets/places named for a reason - Like "Penang" state in Malaysia is named after a "Pinang" tree. Hope to find out why/how in my next visit!
When it comes to giving a name, I believe the Chinese are the most practical people. A lot of the old street names in Malaysia and Singapore were named for a reason or are reflective of what that street was famous for. Even some people's names are simply given to denote some event or other at the time. This is more so in the old days as current folks are more sophisticated(?) shall I say?
Low, as usual, an interesting read. Thanks for sharing.
Good observation, Happy. I can only said they are more practical - like how many town/place in our country named after a tree (Penang for Pinang, Jelutong, Mertajam, etc.) or after an incident (gang fight - Taiping everlasting town). Glad that you enjoy reading, my friend :)
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